Friday, 8 February 2019


Let's talk about this other flooded engine. We all know that engines breathe air. Thus, when an internal combustion engine made of ferrous materials is immersed in (salt) water, things can be expensive quickly. Do not worry, your engine is not dead if you do it right, but it's dead if you do bad. Here's how to get the water out.
Evaluate the damage

Despite the devastation caused by a flood, this particular problem may not be as serious as it seems. Modern engines have tight tolerances, so the engine may not have taken water. The worst way to check this would be to try to start the engine before watching it. As the water does not compress, any water in the combustion
chamber can damage a piston or connecting rod. This phenomenon, called "hydro-locking", will ruin a pronto engine.

If you only see the vehicle after the water is removed, look for a dirty water line to see how high it has reached the ridge. If the floodwater has reached the bottom of the doors, chances are your engine is working well. The water may have reached the height of the sump, so let the underside dry for at least a few hours, then try starting the engine.

Signals of water damage

If the air filter and intake are wet, assume the worst and look for other signs of water seepage.
If the gauge shows something strange, such as oil all along the line, or if it does not stay in the gauge tube, or if the oil appears to have been mixed with milk, there is probably water in the crankcase. It will penetrate the internal components of the engine after only a few hours immersed.
Fluid, such as coolant, power steering and fuel systems, is another area in which to search for water. Water can easily find its way into a classic, so it's best to check its level by disconnecting a fuel line and emptying it into a bin. If you find water, drain the tank, lines, and replace the fuel filter.
Go to work

Once the engine is out of the water, you will have to extract the water from the engine. Disconnect the battery (ground cable, then positive cable) and put it in a dry place. Remove the plastic engine covers and dry everything you can reach with shop rags.

Pull the candles and run the engine by hand several times. Rotate the crank until the piston reaches its maximum height in the cylinder, so that the towel or vacuum can easily reach the water. A powerful vacuum cleaner in store on the holes of the stopper can also evacuate the water without leaving residues of paper towel.

Another technique is to disconnect the fuel injectors and start the engine. The starter must have enough torque to throw all stagnant water out of the spark plug holes in just a few turns. Then change the oil and the filters. The main bearings hate any type of contact with water, so change the oil again within 500 miles just in case.

Go ahead and buy the big package of matching fuses now. All should be replaced if they spent time underwater.

Modern air intakes generally pull from a low point in front of the radiator. Check the air filter and intake ducts. On a classic, replace the filter (even if it's the repairable type) and buy a carbohydrate cleaner. If the water was dirty or the sea water, you are probably considering a carbohydrate replenishment.

The transmission is a little more sensitive to water damage than an engine. It's pretty tight, but it's not designed to be a submarine either. With over 100 tiny components in this essential component, "It looks good" is not good enough here. Let go of the pan, change the liquid and the filter, and watch for any unusual behavior. If the floodwaters reached your axle differential, most axle differentials have a vent and if they mix, the water will mix with the gear oil. Drain the fluid by removing the differential cover or drain bolt, or use a fluid pump. Fill in the differential with the right gear oil and all the necessary additives for your vehicle.

To give up

In the worst case, the damage caused by a flood even exceeds the repair capacity of a professional mechanic. Modern vehicles sometimes have thousands of wires, relays, sensors and computers.

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